In this writing, I am merely reminiscing about a few fragments of my childhood memories related to the food habits of the Rajbanshi community of North Bengal. Although I was born in Cooch Behar town, our ancestral home was in a village. In the 1990s, after the annual school examinations, we used to visit the homes of our relatives to enjoy the traditional “Sakai” feast. However, with the advent of the liberalized economy, packaged and ready-made foods gradually reached every household in the villages. As a result, the unique traditional dishes of the Rajbanshi community slowly began to disappear. Now, after so many years, I often feel that it would be wonderful to taste those lost dishes once again—to relive the charm of those old days. It is worth mentioning that there are some phonetic differences between standard Bengali and the Rajbanshi dialect, and therefore, the pronunciation of certain words in this text may differ from conventional Bengali.
------::: BREAKFAST (Jalpan) :::------
Doi-Chura (Curd with Flattened Rice):
A traditional and hearty breakfast among the Rajbanshi community and other groups of North Bengal is Doi-Chura — curd with flattened rice. The chura (flattened rice) is made from “Bitri” paddy, pounded in a Dheki (wooden rice pounder) or Cham Gaine (a local rice-flaking tool). It is then mixed in an earthen pot with sour curd, date palm jaggery or sugar, and banana. According to taste, some also add salt and green chilies. Doi-Chura is also offered as naibedya (offering) during worship of various folk deities in North Bengal. In such rituals, the dish is served with Malbhog or Atia bananas, often presented on banana leaf cones (dhongol), but without salt or chili. Sometimes, for a tangy-sweet-spicy flavor, sugar candies (batasha) or jalebi are added.
Khoi-Muri (Puffed Rice & Popped Rice):
Many people prefer a light breakfast of khoi (popped rice) and muri (puffed rice) with a cup of tea in the morning. It is a simple and easy meal. Usually, after festivals like Lakshmi Puja, the leftover khoi is eaten in the following days as khoi-muri. Sometimes it is mixed with milk and sugar, while others enjoy it dry with grated coconut for a slightly sweet flavor.
Vur-vura (Chaal Vaaja / Fried Rice Grains):
This light breakfast is made by roasting raw rice grains in a pan — with or without a small amount of oil. The roasted rice is then mixed with sugar, grated coconut, and a pinch of salt to prepare a quick and tasty morning snack.
Gura (Chatu / Roasted Grain Flour):
Grains such as wheat, rice, and pahera (a long, white grain similar to wheat) are roasted in an iron pan without oil and then ground in a Cham Gaine (traditional grinder). If the resulting flour is very fine, it is called Gura; if slightly coarse, it is called Chapta Gura. Farmers traditionally ate Gura or Chapta Gura mixed with milk, banana, and sugar before heading to the fields in the morning.
Atkalai-Batkalai (Mixed Pulses Snack):
This snack is mainly eaten during Chaitra Sankranti, the Bengali New Year’s Eve. Atkalai literally means a mix of eight types of pulses, roasted together much like Dalmut or fried lentil mix. Some people prefer to lightly grind the mixture before eating.
Telani Cha (Chilee Tea):
Telani Cha is a traditional tea made simply with water, salt, and both dry and green chilies. Some people enjoy drinking this spicy-salty tea alongside their meal.
------::: SNACKS ITEMS :::------
Vaji (Fried Dishes):
Having any kind of fried dish (vaji) with rice adds a distinct flavor to the meal. Usually, “vaji” refers to fried items like potatoes, jackfruit seeds, ridge gourd, teasel gourd, spine gourd, snake gourd, eggplant, spring onion, ash gourd, and bottle gourd. Apart from these, a special delicacy is duck egg fried with mustard (soishar) flowers, which is simply exquisite.
Bora (Fritters):
To make bara, mix equal portions of rice flour and wheat flour (or refined flour), add a pinch of salt, turmeric powder, and dry chili powder, then whisk the mixture well with water to make a smooth batter. Next, dip thinly sliced vegetables like eggplant, ash gourd, bottle gourd, bokful (sesbania flower), or pumpkin flower into the batter and fry them — and it’s ready! Alternatively, a mixture of turmeric, onion, dry chili, green chili, and lentils (like black gram, mung bean, or split peas) can be ground together on a stone slab (shil-pata) and fried over a low flame to make lentil fritters. Popular varieties include fritters made from masoor dal (red lentils), khesari dal (grass peas), motor dal (yellow peas), and cholar dal (Bengal gram). Some people also make fritters using jute leaves, a leafy creeper called alangi, or crushed taro stems. One of my personal favorites is a fritter made from lightly crushed potato and pointed gourd peels, ground together on a stone slab and fried till crisp.
SHAK (Vegetable Fry / Soup):
In our daily meals, various kinds of leafy greens (shak) occupy an important place depending on the season. These greens not only aid in digestion but also help boost the body’s immune system. Moreover, since leafy vegetables are rich in dietary fibre, they help relieve constipation.
Dhekia Shak (Fiddlehead Fern):
Dhekia shak is an evergreen plant that grows throughout the year in shady and moist areas. It is a nutritious and delicious leafy vegetable. It can be eaten fried with salt and oil, or prepared as a spicy curry by cooking the tender tops of the fern with mustard paste and potatoes. The scientific name of dhekia shak is Diplazium esculentum. The vitamins and minerals present in it help prevent heart diseases, strengthen immunity, keep the skin healthy, control blood sugar levels, and improve digestion. Many people also prepare fritters (bora) with dhekia shak.
Bothua Shak (Lamb's quarters/ White goosefoot/ Fat hen):
Bathua shak (or Betho shak) is cultivated in wheat fields at the end of winter and becomes available in local markets at the beginning of summer. It also grows naturally as a weed along the edges of fields. This leafy green can be eaten either as a stir-fry or as a curry. However, a particularly delicious preparation is when bathua shak is fried together with eggplant and fish oil. Bathua shak is rich in iron, potassium, vitamin A, vitamin C, and fiber. Its scientific name is Chenopodium album. This leafy vegetable is excellent for boosting immunity and digestion. In rural traditions, it is believed that drinking bathua juice mixed with sugar helps dissolve kidney stones. Many people also believe that bathua shak is an effective remedy for leucoderma (vitiligo). For wounds, the traditional method is to heat bathua with sesame oil and apply it to the affected area. Chewing raw bathua shak is also said to heal mouth ulcers. However, excessive consumption of bathua shak may cause diarrhoea.
Kolmi Shak (Water spinach/Water morning glory):
Water spinach (Kolmi shak) usually grows in watery or marshy areas. It is typically stir-fried in a small amount of oil with dried chilies, onions, and garlic. Besides being cooked as a stir-fry, kolmi shak is also prepared as a lentil curry (dal) with shrimp or small fish. Some people cook it with eggplant as well. Kolmi shak is rich in vitamins and minerals. Its scientific name is Ipomoea aquatica. The presence of beta-carotene (a source of vitamin A) helps improve eyesight. Since it contains a high amount of vitamin C, eating this leafy vegetable boosts the immune system. The calcium in kolmi shak helps strengthen bones. Additionally, it is beneficial for reducing the risk of heart disease, maintaining a healthy liver, and improving digestion.
Pat Shak (Jute Leaves):
At the end of summer, jute (pat) is cultivated in the fields; hence, jute leaves (pat shak) are available during both summer and monsoon seasons. Pat shak is usually cooked either as a stir-fry or as a light curry. Since jute leaves contain a high amount of fiber, they tend to be comparatively tough. Therefore, the leaves are rolled by hand into small knots and dried under the sun — this is known as pat shaker gito. After drying in the sun for three to four days, the leaves become soft, a stage referred to as pat patar shukati. This dried form (shukati) is often cooked with lentils, especially masoor dal. Additionally, pat shaker gito is prepared as a chachchari (a semi-dry mixed dish) with potatoes and mustard paste. Sometimes, it is also cooked as chyaka using dhula (alkaline dust, discussed below) or edible soda. Pat shak is rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, which help prevent various diseases in the body. Its scientific name is Corchorus Olitorius. Being high in fiber, pat shak helps relieve constipation and improves digestion. It is also rich in calcium and magnesium, which strengthen bones and teeth. The vitamin C content helps protect against colds and coughs, while vitamins A and E keep the skin healthy and improve eyesight. Moreover, the potassium in pat shak helps regulate blood pressure, and its antioxidants reduce inflammation, thereby lowering the risk of diseases such as cancer and heart ailments.
Napa/ Lafa Shak (Mallow):
Napa Shak (or Lafa Shak) is now available in the market throughout the year, except during the monsoon season. Although it is essentially a winter flowering plant, it is widely used as a popular leafy vegetable. Among the Rajbanshi community, Napa Shak Palka (discussed below) is especially popular. Apart from that, Napa Shak is also eaten as a stir-fry, sour curry, or light broth. The scientific name of Napa Shak is Malva parviflora. It is rich in essential nutrients such as vitamins A, C, and K, along with calcium, iron, potassium, and dietary fiber. The calcium present in Napa Shak helps maintain healthy bones, while vitamin A benefits eye health. The presence of vitamin C boosts the body’s immune system. The fiber in Napa shak aids digestion and helps prevent constipation. Additionally, its potassium content helps regulate blood pressure. Many believe that regular consumption of Napa Shak helps control high blood pressure and diabetes. However, those who are allergic to certain vegetables should avoid or limit their intake of Napa Shak.
হাপ্পা হাপ্পা নাপা শাক, রসুন তেলানি।
দোলাবাড়ির পুটিমাছ, মুকোত আনে পানি।।
তাকজে খ্যায়া ঘেগী বুড়ি ঘ্যাগ উচিয়া নাচে ।
নয়া সাকাই আসচে বারিতে ।।
CHHYEKA (Digestive Vegetable Shoop):
Dhula:
The stem or core of an Atia banana plant (or mura, a banana pseudostem) is first dried in the sun and then burned. From the ashes, the fine and light ash is carefully separated. Then, a coconut shell or husk with a small hole is fitted with a kosta (a jute fiber plug). The fine banana ash is placed inside the shell, and water is poured over it. Gradually, alkaline water drips down through the bottom hole. This alkaline liquid is collected in a pot and was traditionally used for cooking chyaka (a local curry). The device made from the coconut shell is called a Potna.
Palka:
Palka is cooked in a similar way to Chyaka, but the main difference is that Chyaka requires tialani (tempering with oil/ Foron), whereas Palka is prepared without oil. Only three ingredients are needed to make Palka: green chilies, garlic, and salt. In a pan or a covered pot, water is boiled and chopped green chilies, garlic, vegetables, and salt are added and boiled together. The greens float on the surface of the water. When the water dries up, Palka is ready. Since the vegetables are not fried, Palka retains more nutritional value, and many people refer to it as a kind of soup. Palka tends to have a slightly slippery texture.
হুল্লুতে প্যালকা কাউনির চাউল
ডাউল দিয়া হইচে।
তাকে খায়া পানিয়ামরা
বাউদিয়া হইচে ।।
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-----::: FISH ITEMS (FRESH) :::-----
I believe that fish-based cuisine is not something exclusive to any particular caste or community. This is because throughout North Bengal and Lower Assam, not only the Rajbanshi people but also many other ethnic groups live side by side — such as the Bodo, Rava, Nepali, Bengali, Assamese, Mech, Garo, and Santal communities. Due to the long history of coexistence among these diverse groups, there has been a rich exchange of cultural traditions. As a result, it is difficult — and not entirely accurate — to determine which group’s style of cooking fish belongs to whom. Rather, it is more meaningful to discuss the kinds of fish commonly eaten by the Rajbanshi people. For instance, baim fish is generally eaten by Muslims and not usually by the Rajbanshi community. Throughout the year, the rivers, canals, ponds, and wetlands of North Bengal are full of various types of fish — among the most notable are rui, katla, boirali, moa, chanda, chang, bhola, phali, shaul, and chitol. Depending on the season, these fish are often cooked in curries with potatoes and cauliflower, or potatoes and brinjal. Besides that, saati fish is cooked with kochu (taro) and lentils; small darkina or puti fish are cooked with potatoes and onions into a spicy chhachchari (mixed curry). Likewise, fried fish such as khalisha, puiya, khyata, gata, isla, bashpatari, chapila, and bata go very well with hot rice. Tangra fish is cooked either as a chhachchari or a light curry. Though telapuiya and koi fish have many bones, when prepared with hot spices they taste delicious. Some people cook kuchia (eel fish) with garlic in a meat-like style to increase blood levels in the body. For the sick, light broths of koi, magur, and shingi fish, seasoned with cumin, are considered highly beneficial. Those who own ponds or small tanks often eat fish like silver carp, grass carp, sarputi, and japani puti throughout the year. In addition to local fish, various traded (chalani) fish found in the markets include ilish (hilsa), pabda, aar, bhetki, golda chingri (giant prawns), and pomfret. Cooking and eating these varieties of fish at home largely depend on one’s purchasing power. Usually, such dishes are served at special occasions and feasts — such as weddings or annaprashan (the first rice-eating ceremony).
-------::: DRY FISH ITEMS :::-------
Once, during the monsoon season, when rivers, canals, wetlands, and low-lying fields overflowed with rainwater, fish became plentiful. At that time, people would catch fish to their heart’s content using jakai, khalai, tepai, burung, and polo nets. Fishing then took on the spirit of a grand festival. The abundance of fish in those days is evident from the names of various places in North Bengal — such as Putimari, Moyamari, Chandamari, Falimari, Shaulmari, Changmari, Khalisamari, Ichamari, and others — all of which carry traces of that legacy. Since it was impossible to consume so much fish at once, preservation became necessary. It is believed that from this very need originated shutka (dried fish) and sidol (fermented fish paste).
Sutka:
The fish are cleaned by cutting open their bellies, washing thoroughly, and rubbing them with salt before being dried in the sun. After about ten days of drying, the shutka (dried fish) becomes ready to eat. Dried varieties of Khakila, Monbhola, Darkina, and Icha (shrimp) are especially popular among the Rajbanshi community.
Sidole:
After the monsoon, when the shallow ponds and waterlogged areas around the house dry up, fish caught from these places are used for making sidol (fermented fish ball). The fish are first rubbed against a rough bamboo strainer tray (chongoi) to remove their scales, and then the insides are cleaned thoroughly. Next, the fish are washed again and dried well under strong sunlight. Once completely dried, the fish are ground into powder using a cham and gaine (traditional wooden mortar and pestle). The powder is then sieved through a tekni (bamboo sieve). The fine powder that passes through is kept separately, while the remaining coarse bits — bones and pieces of fish — are ground again until finely powdered. If alangi (a type of edible root) is available, it is ideal; otherwise, mana (taro root or colocasia) are used by removing their skin and cutting them into thin slices. In the cham, the fine fish powder is mixed with the alangi or mana pieces, a little turmeric, and mustard oil. This mixture is then pounded thoroughly with the gaine. The pounding continues until the alangi pieces blend completely with the powdered fish. No water should be added during this process. After a long session of pounding, a dark-colored paste is formed. At this stage, it has no particular smell. However, after being dried in the sun for several days, when it begins to emit a strong odor, it indicates that the sidol is ready. To prevent insects or fungus from forming, the sidol is stored in an airtight container along with angra (pieces of charcoal). Sidol can mainly be cooked in two ways — Sidoler Chhyaka (a type of spiced stew) and Sidoler Auta (a thick paste or mash).
Sidoler Awta:
On a clay stove, with a small fire, first heat a little oil in an iron pan (Tasla). Then lightly fry some dry red chilies, chopped garlic, and sidol (fermented fish ball). After that, add a little water or rice starch (bhat’er Maar/ phaan), along with salt to taste, and let it boil well before removing it from the pan. It is worth mentioning that Sidoler Auta has a soft, mashed texture. When eaten with hot rice, nothing else is needed. Sidoler Auta is considered very important for restoring one’s appetite and enhancing taste.
Sidoler chhyeka:
Sidoler Chhyaka is quite similar to Sidoler Auta. However, in this preparation, dry red chilies, chopped garlic, and sidol (fermented fish ball) are lightly fried in a little oil first. Then, any seasonal leafy vegetable is added to it. Once everything is well fried, a small amount of baking soda is added. A light gravy is then made by adding a little water. In earlier times, instead of baking soda, Dhula (banana stem or banana root ash) was used. Dishes like Sidol-er Chhyaka made with napashak, puishak, or lau pata (various local greens) are not only delicious—like nectar—but also very good for digestion.
------::: MEAT ITEMS (MOSONG) :::------
Until the 1990s, in Rajbanshi society, the term “meat” usually referred to goat (patha), castrated goat (khasi), sheep, pigeon (koitor), duck, or pork. Good-quality meat was available in the village markets (haat), but those markets were held only once a week, and permanent marketplaces were few. When guests or relatives came to visit, people would buy meat through a system called bhaga (sharing). Three or four families would jointly buy and slaughter a goat or khasi, and the meat would be divided equally on banana leaves, ensuring everyone received a fair share of all parts. The goats from Baneswar and Kashiyabari markets were famous in the region, while the pork from Damanpur and Dodeya markets had a great reputation. In Rajbanshi religious rituals, chicken is never used. Most families did not rear chickens, as it was considered impure or inappropriate. However, later on, chicken became more common because it was cheaper. When I was a child, I saw many elderly people who wouldn’t even allow chicken meat to be placed on their plates.
দই এর আগাল, ঘোলের শেষ।
কচি পাঠা, বৃদ্ধ মেষ।।
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Pata:
Using a fire made of dry twigs (khori), the meat and potatoes are first fried in an iron wok. Then water is added to make gravy, and once the mixture is cooked and softened, the meat is ready. The spices used are minimal — just a little cumin, ginger, and dry red chili paste ground on a traditional shil-nora (stone grinder). The freshly cooked meat and its gravy are entirely natural and healthy. In those days, people didn’t marinate the meat or wait for hours, nor did they overload the dish with heaps of powdered spices that upset the stomach. Only a small amount of turmeric powder was added. Nowadays, the authentic flavor of local cooking is being lost amid various types of packaged spice mixes. Incidentally, patha refers to a male goat. According to many, the goats found in North Bengal are comparatively smaller in size, with ears positioned at a right angle to the head. This breed is known as the West Bengal Black Goat. Goats from Bihar are taller, with drooping ears, and are often called Ram chagol (ram goats). Folklore says that if a male goat is black in color and roams freely, its meat tastes far better.
Khashi:
To make pithali, mix a small amount of turmeric, dry red chili powder, salt, water, and rice flour into a thick batter. Then, pieces of khasir tel are coated with the batter and deep-fried in hot oil. These khasir tel-er bora (fried fat fritters) are delicious. Similarly, a meal of meat, fat, and gravy served with steaming hot rice is simply exquisite. According to an old local belief, if a male goat (patha) becomes sexually active, its physical strength declines, and its meat loses much of its nutritive value and taste. To maintain the quality of the meat, the goat’s reproductive organs (testes) are either cut or crushed. Such a goat is called a khasi (castrated goat), and the process is known as khasia kora (castration). As a result of this procedure, fat begins to accumulate in the goat’s body within a short time. When it weighs around 10–12 kilograms, it is considered suitable for consumption. If a khasi weight exceeds 15 kilograms, it is no longer allowed to roam outside, as running or exertion might cause a heart attack. With proper care and feeding as a child, a khasi can grow up to 20–25 kilograms. Since goat meat contains a high level of cholesterol, obese people are advised to avoid eating it. Overconsumption of goat meat increases the risk of heart attack. The Khasir Mosong (meat) from the periodic markets of Hamiltonganj, Damanpur, Kashiyabari, Shikaripur, Nilkuthi, and Dodeya is particularly famous.
Suwar (Pork):
In the weekly markets of Kalchini, Mahakalguri, Damanpur, and Dodeya, good-quality pork is available. People generally prefer the badu (fatty layer) more than the lean meat itself. To prepare it, the meat is first boiled in hot water. Then, with the help of pliers, the thick bristles on the skin are pulled out. Some people, instead of taking the trouble, simply cut off the tough outer skin. However, by doing so, the characteristic “kach-kach” (crunchy) sound heard while eating the badu after cooking is lost. Like goat or mutton, pork is cooked by braising it well with onions, garlic, ginger, turmeric, cumin, and other spices. If not eaten while hot, the gravy thickens quickly as it cools. In our household, though the men ate pork, the women did not. Separate pans and plates were kept exclusively for cooking this meat. The young men of the family would sometimes cook it themselves — like a picnic — eat together, and then wash the utensils afterward. Since pork contains a high amount of fat, people often eat it with roti instead of rice. However, excessive consumption can lead to tapeworm infection and also increases the risk of heart attack.
Koitor:
One of the traditional delicacies of the Rajbanshi people is koitor or pigeon meat. It is usually prepared to honour special guests. The younger the koitor (also called kobitor or pigeon), the better it tastes. If an older pigeon is cooked, its bones make a hard, cracking sound while eating. The bird’s feathers are plucked, and the meat is slightly singed over fire before cooking. According to local belief, if too much talking is done while burning off the feathers, more new feathers tend to grow back. As pigeon meat is considered “cooling” in nature, it is generally avoided by those prone to colds or respiratory problems. During winter, when mustard is cultivated in the fields, pigeons feed on the mustard seeds, which make them fatter. At that time, a dish of koitor meat cooked with alangi (small taro roots), served with bhog dhan rice and fried jackfruit seeds, tasted simply exquisite. Moreover, when people make vows to deities, pigeons are sometimes sacrificed and offered as part of the ritual. However, in such offerings, onion and garlic are not used in the preparation. In many Kali temples, koitorer moshong (pigeon meat) is also cooked with Bengal gram (cholar dal) as prasad (sacred offering).
Hasha (Duck):
Usually, when a person’s vow or wish made to a deity is fulfilled, they offer a duck (haas) to the deity on the next auspicious date according to the lunar calendar. After the worship, the duck is cooked and eaten as prasad (sacred offering). This meat contains a high amount of iron and also fatty acids, which help in rapid weight gain. However, heart patients, overweight individuals, and those with allergies generally avoid eating duck meat.
Harital:
While ploughing the fields, various small creatures such as insects, worms, and grubs come out of the soil. These attract herons, and sometimes harital birds (a local species) also come to feed on them. They used to be hunted with slings (batul). People often said, “The harital is the food of kings.” I have never eaten its meat myself, but I have seen this bird many times in the fields. Nowadays, under the Wildlife Protection Act, catching or hunting them is completely prohibited.
Dauki:
The Dauki or Dahuk bird is the White-breasted Waterhen. Even today, this black-and-white bird can be seen in the rural areas of North Bengal — in fields, wetlands, and waterlogged lands. Its legs are long and yellowish in colour. To catch a Dauki, people used to set traps made from broken umbrella ribs and bamboo frames (bansher deli). When one bird was caught, its pitiful cries would attract the rest of the flock, and they too would get trapped one by one. The meat of the Dauki was cleaned, cut into small pieces, and cooked with simple spices until well-braised. Nowadays, because of the easy availability of chicken in the market, eating Dauki has almost disappeared.
Dura:
The dura is a small aquatic creature, much smaller in size than a turtle. Generally, there are two types of dura — dhyap dura and katua dura. Notably, dhyap dura used to be found in wetlands, low-lying areas, and ponds as the monsoon water receded. On the other hand, katua dura was found in higher, sandy riverbanks. Its meat is soft and tender. As late as 2002–2003, I myself saw dura meat being sold in the periodic markets of Boxirhat and Kashiyabarihat. However, if it was not cleaned and washed properly before cooking, it could cause poisoning. At present, under the Wildlife Protection Act, catching or hunting these creatures is completely prohibited.
-------::: DRINKS :::-------
Sarpes (Sharbat):
Cool water from an earthen pot is mixed with sugar and a pinch of salt. Once the sugar and salt dissolve completely, lemon juice is squeezed in — and the Sarpes (or Sharbat) is ready. For added aroma, some people use Gandharaj lemon, while others prefer Kakji lemon for a tangier taste. This drink not only cools the body but also replenishes the lost salts and helps prevent dehydration.
Ghol (Buttermilk):
Sour curd, sugar, a little salt, and water are whisked together using a ghutni (traditional wooden churner) to prepare Ghol. It helps keep the stomach cool and improves digestion. Some people add mint leaves and a pinch of black salt (beet lobon) to enhance the flavor.
--------::: MOUTH FRESHNER :::-------
The thing without which one cannot quite begin an intimate conversation, or bring forth words of joy and sorrow from the heart to the lips, is Paan (betel leaf) and Tambul (areca nut) — Paan and Supri (Supari). The supari of Dhupguri and the paan of Japaiguri and Maynaguri are renowned throughout North Bengal.
Gua Pan:
The financial condition of a household could often be gauged by looking at its paan bata (tray). It was usually under the care of an elderly woman of the house — the mother, grandmother, or great-grandmother. Every day, they would faithfully slice areca nuts (supari) with a small cutter (sottya or jāti) and neatly arrange them on the tray along with a few fresh betel leaves. A paan bata (tray) typically contained several small containers, each holding sliced supari, khoyer (catechu), gundi (flavored cardamom or nut preparation), and chun (lime paste). The container used for storing lime was called chuner khuti. Whether it was arranging a marriage alliance, an afternoon gathering of women, or an evening session of music and friendly chats among elders — paan and supri were always present. During such storytelling sessions, the master of the house would sometimes order his wife to prepare food. But if there was nothing in the kitchen, the irritated wife would sharply reply — what do you think she said?
মাইয়োর মা কুত্তি গেলু হা, আজি তুই ভাতো রান্ধিবু না।
আজি মুই কোনোয় রান্ধিম না,
দেখি তোমরা কি করিবার পান,
পাইছলা গেইচে চুনার খুটিত, তবু না ছাড়েন গান।।
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Moza Gua (Fermented Areca nut):
On the other hand, ripe yellow areca nuts have to be plucked from the trees. Then a pit is dug in the ground, and the areca nuts are placed inside a drum, which is sealed and buried in the earth. During the rainy season, many people fill sacks with areca nuts and submerge them in ponds instead. After about 15 to 20 days, the nuts swell up, and their outer husks loosen. This fermented areca nut is known as “Moza Guya.”
Bhaja Gua:
Half-ripe areca nuts must be plucked from the tree. Then they are roasted in an iron pan without using any oil. Some people roast them with sand instead. After roasting, the areca nuts are sliced using a cutter (Sottya or jāti), and thus the roasted supri (supari) is ready. Many people call this variety “vaza supri" or "chips supari.”
Deshi Gaach Paan:
Usually, these paan trees grow by clinging to areca nut trees for support. The betel leaves are smaller in size, and their taste is stronger than that of other varieties. If one is not accustomed to it, chewing these leaves can cause dizziness.
Vaaga Paan:
With either fermented (moza) areca nut or raw areca nut, one can enjoy bhagapan — whether made with the local desi betel leaf or the refined chalani variety. The bhagapan roll (khili) is prepared using raw supari mixed with lime paste (chun). For those unaccustomed to it, chewing it suddenly can make them break into a sweat and even peel the skin of the tongue.
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