Traditional Dishes of Koch Rajbanshi Community of North Bengal

In this writing, I am merely reminiscing about a few fragments of my childhood memories related to the food habits of the Rajbanshi community of North Bengal. Although I was born in Cooch Behar town, our ancestral home was in a village. In the 1990s, after the annual school examinations, we used to visit the homes of our relatives to enjoy the traditional “Sakai” feast. However, with the advent of the liberalized economy, packaged and ready-made foods gradually reached every household in the villages. As a result, the unique traditional dishes of the Rajbanshi community slowly began to disappear. Now, after so many years, I often feel that it would be wonderful to taste those lost dishes once again—to relive the charm of those old days. It is worth mentioning that there are some phonetic differences between standard Bengali and the Rajbanshi dialect, and therefore, the pronunciation of certain words in this text may differ from conventional Bengali.

------::: RAJBANSHI KITCHEN :::------

When I was a child, I used to see that in villages, houses were not built together in a single line but separately around an open courtyard. This courtyard along with the surrounding four houses was called a “Chak.” In most cases, the kitchen was located on the western side. Generally, the kitchen was made with a mud base and bamboo walls. In earlier times, the roof was thatched with shon (straw), but nowadays tin sheets or asbestos are used instead. On the veranda of the kitchen, the men of the household would usually sit and have their meals. The inner part of the kitchen was divided into two sections — in one part, cooking was done; in the other, utensils, vegetables, firewood, and other kitchen items were stored. On the bamboo beam (dhanna) above, bunches of garlic were hung. Beside the mud stove (chowka), there used to be a bamboo pole about one and a half feet high — this was called “Thoga.” On top of it, a kerosene lamp (called “Gocha”) was kept. Near the stove, there was also a one-foot-long pipe made of bamboo, which was used to blow air into the fire while lighting it — this was called “Thuri.” At that time, there was no electricity in the villages. Other essential kitchen utensils included: Boti, katai, hāri, tasla, bāti, khora (bowl), hāta khunti, deli, khuchi, chela, chongoi, kula, shil-pata, and cham-gain (rice pounder). For eating, people sat on low wooden bajot (pira), and for cooking, a wooden step stool (chakipira) was used. A whisking stick (ghutni) for stirring pulses was made by inserting bamboo sticks into a jute stem. Dried bottle gourds (lau er boss) were used as containers to store salt. Below is a list of some Rajbanshi words with their meanings.

Rajbangshi	Pronunciation	Bengali	English
জুই	Jui	আগুন	Fire
চৌকা	Chouka	উনুন	Oven
হান্ডি	handi	হাঁড়ি	Pot/ Pipkin
তসলা	Tasla	কড়াই	Cauldron
ডেসকি	Deski	বড় গামলা	Small cauldron
খোরা	Khora	বড় বাটি	Bowl
শীলপাটা	Shilpata	শীল ও নোড়া	Stone Grinder
গচা	Gacha	প্রদীপ	Lamp
ঠগা	Thaga	প্রদীপ রাখার দন্ড	Lamp Monopod
থুরি	Thuri	বাশের পাইপ	Bamboo pipe for air inject to set fire at oven
ঘুটনী	Ghutni	ঘুটনী কাটা	Anchor shaped tool
হাতা - খন্তি	Hata - Khunti	হাতা - খুন্তি	Ladle, Spatula/ Turner
ডেলি	Deli	বড় ডালি	Medium size bamboo basket/ tray
খুচি	Khuci	ছোট ডালি	Small size bamboo basket/ tray
চেলা	Chela	চালুনি	Round shape bamboo winnowing fan
কুলা	Kula	কুলা	Open end D shape bamboo winnowing fan
চাইলন	Chailon	বাঁশের বড় ছাকনি	Bamboo strainer tray for washing vegetables.
চংওই	Changoi	বাঁশের মিহি ছাকনি	Bamboo strainer tray for fish wash
কাটাই	Katai	কাটারি	Folding cutter
বটি	Boti	বটি	Cutting board
ছাম - গাইন	Cham - Gain	উড়ন ঢেকি	Large size wooden mortar & pestle
হামু - গাইন	Hamu - Gain	হামাম দিস্তা	Small size iron mortar & pestle

------::: BREAKFAST (Jalpan) :::------

Doi-Chura (Curd with Flattened Rice):

A traditional and hearty breakfast among the Rajbanshi community and other groups of North Bengal is Doi-Chura — curd with flattened rice. The chura (flattened rice) is made from “Bitri” paddy, pounded in a Dheki (wooden rice pounder) or Cham Gaine (a local rice-flaking tool). It is then mixed in an earthen pot with sour curd, date palm jaggery or sugar, and banana. According to taste, some also add salt and green chilies. Doi-Chura is also offered as naibedya (offering) during worship of various folk deities in North Bengal. In such rituals, the dish is served with Malbhog or Atia bananas, often presented on banana leaf cones (dhongol), but without salt or chili. Sometimes, for a tangy-sweet-spicy flavor, sugar candies (batasha) or jalebi are added.

Khoi-Muri (Puffed Rice & Popped Rice):

Many people prefer a light breakfast of khoi (popped rice) and muri (puffed rice) with a cup of tea in the morning. It is a simple and easy meal. Usually, after festivals like Lakshmi Puja, the leftover khoi is eaten in the following days as khoi-muri. Sometimes it is mixed with milk and sugar, while others enjoy it dry with grated coconut for a slightly sweet flavor.

Vur-vura (Chaal Vaaja / Fried Rice Grains):

This light breakfast is made by roasting raw rice grains in a pan — with or without a small amount of oil. The roasted rice is then mixed with sugar, grated coconut, and a pinch of salt to prepare a quick and tasty morning snack.

Gura (Chatu / Roasted Grain Flour):

Grains such as wheat, rice, and pahera (a long, white grain similar to wheat) are roasted in an iron pan without oil and then ground in a Cham Gaine (traditional grinder). If the resulting flour is very fine, it is called Gura; if slightly coarse, it is called Chapta Gura. Farmers traditionally ate Gura or Chapta Gura mixed with milk, banana, and sugar before heading to the fields in the morning.

Atkalai-Batkalai (Mixed Pulses Snack):

This snack is mainly eaten during Chaitra Sankranti, the Bengali New Year’s Eve. Atkalai literally means a mix of eight types of pulses, roasted together much like Dalmut or fried lentil mix. Some people prefer to lightly grind the mixture before eating.

Telani Cha (Chilee Tea):

Telani Cha is a traditional tea made simply with water, salt, and both dry and green chilies. Some people enjoy drinking this spicy-salty tea alongside their meal.

------::: MAIN COURSE :::------

Rice is the principal food crop of Northeast India. Therefore, every community living in this region has given priority to rice as their primary food grain. The Koch or Rajbanshi people are no exception. Earlier, local people cultivated certain varieties of rice through subsistence-based farming, among which Aush and Aman were notable. Besides these, Nunia or Bhogdhan were also important varieties. In marshy areas, Dhepi rice was cultivated, and the rice cooked from this variety was coarse in texture. After harvesting, the rice would be threshed and winnowed, then boiled in large woks and dried under the sun. After that, the rice would be husked using a chham-gain or dheki (traditional wooden rice-pounder). During that time, varieties such as Aloa, Jashoa, and Bitri rice were widely grown. Later, farmers were introduced to high-yielding varieties (HYV) of rice. With irrigation made possible by shallow tube-wells, the cultivation of IR and China Boro rice increased significantly. The grains of these rice varieties are thicker. At present, Swarna Masuri and Paijam varieties are being cultivated. In the 1990s, as rice mills or husking mills began to develop in rural areas, the traditional chham-gain and dheki gradually disappeared from daily life.

Vat (Rice):

First, place half the amount of water in a pot and bring it to a boil. Then add the rice and cover the pot with a lid. After about 30 minutes, the water will start bubbling up, and the rice starch (fan) will overflow from the mouth of the pot. Now press a grain of rice with a ladle to check whether it is cooked. If the rice is not fully cooked, remove the lid and let it boil a little longer. Once it is fully cooked, strain the starch water, and the rice will be ready to eat.

Panta Vat (Fermented Rice):

If cooked rice from the previous night was left over, many people would add water to it, cover it, and leave it to soak—this is how panta bhaat was made. On the other hand, when people went to the fields after eating fresh rice in the morning, they often felt too lazy to work properly. And at noon, after returning home, they usually did not feel like cooking again. At such times, panta bhaat would satisfy their hunger. It is eaten by mixing it with raw green chilies, salt, and whole onions. Because the rice remains soaked in water for a long time, it becomes fermented. As a result, the tiredness and exhaustion that follow hours of hard work in the fields would be relieved by eating this panta bhaat.

------::: USHA & VATTA/PORA :::------

(Boiled and Sisler)

Alu Usha (Mashed Boiled Potato):

When there is no vegetable or lentil dish to go with rice, or when cooking isn’t done yet but one needs to eat quickly and leave for work, “Aloo Ushā” (mashed potato mix) has no alternative. It is made by mashing boiled and peeled potatoes with chopped raw onions, green chilies, and mustard oil. The combination of ghee, hot rice, and mashed potato makes for a heavy and filling meal that can be prepared in very little time. In earlier days, when food was cooked over firewood, many people would roast potatoes on the embers and mash them with rice to eat. The fresh round potatoes newly harvested from the fields are considered ideal for making roasted potato mash (aloo pora).

Baigon Pora (Roasted Brinjal):

In winter, large, thick eggplants are roasted over straw fire until the outer skin is completely burnt. The burnt skin is then peeled off, and the soft flesh is mixed with mustard oil, salt, finely chopped onions, and green chilies — and that’s how begun pora (roasted brinjal mash) is prepared. According to one of my food connoisseur friends, the “Doldola baigon” from Kaljani market is considered ideal for making soba (roasted eggplant). Some people lightly fry the roasted eggplant afterward to reduce its raw smoky smell. In any case, baigan pora tastes wonderful with hot rice. Some people also enjoy it with roti. However, baigon pora with rice is most commonly eaten at night.

------::: DAUL (DAL) :::------

Musuri Kalai / Musur Dai (Lentils):

This red-colored lentil is easily digestible, which is why it is the most widely consumed. Since onions are used while cooking the dal, masoor dal is considered a non-vegetarian (āmish) dal. It is not used during religious rituals or festivals. Generally, this dal is cooked with a spiced tempering. Many people boil or mash masoor dal with onion and garlic and eat it with rice. As this dal contains a high amount of protein, it is eaten as a substitute for non-vegetarian food. Some people jokingly call masoor dal the “meat of the poor.” Masoor dal slows down the digestion process, keeping the stomach full for a long time, which helps in reducing body weight. However, people with kidney disease, thyroid disorders, or allergies should avoid eating this dal.

Mug Dal (Mung Bean):

Two types of moong dal are available in the market: the green-coloured dal with skin and the yellow-coloured dal without skin. Moong dal contains fibre, potassium, and magnesium, which help reduce blood pressure. It also helps lower the level of LDL cholesterol. In addition, moong dal contains pectin fiber, which aids digestion. However, because moong dal contains lectin, consuming it in excess can cause gas problems and may even harm the digestive system.

Mator/ Chhola/ Buter Dal (Peas):

This lentil, which comes in yellow or green grains, is cooked during religious festivals. Many people eat motor dal or chhola dal with luchi on festive days. This dal contains a high amount of protein, fiber, vitamins, and minerals. It aids digestion, relieves constipation, and improves digestive strength. Motor dal is notable for keeping the heart healthy and helping maintain body weight. Additionally, since motor dal has a low glycemic index, it helps stabilize blood sugar levels and supports diabetes control.

Taru Kalai / Arohar Dal (Pigeon Pea):

Arhar dal is yellow and grainy in appearance, quite similar to motor dal, though the grains are thinner. This dal contains a high amount of protein, fiber, potassium, iron, and calcium. Because it is rich in potassium and fiber, arhar dal helps control high blood pressure and reduce bad cholesterol. However, eating arhar dal in excess can cause bloating, indigestion, and gas.

Thakuri Kalai/ Mashkalai (Black Gram):

This black-colored lentil has a white spot on one side, which makes it easy to identify. Among the Koch Rajbanshi people, this dal is consumed in larger quantities. It can be cooked both in non-vegetarian and vegetarian styles. In modern times, this dal is also prepared as a torka and eaten with roti.

Biuli (Black-eyed Peas / Cowpea):

Many people consider maskalai dal and biuli dal to be the same, but although they belong to the same genus, they are different species. Biuli dal is a type of cowpea seed. Since this dal is low in fat, it helps in weight reduction. Biuli dal contains vitamins and minerals, which protect the body from infections and strengthen the immune system. Along with that, the presence of calcium, phosphorus, and magnesium helps make our bones and teeth strong. Because this dal contains iron and vitamin B9, it helps in the formation of new blood cells and prevents anemia. In addition, biuli dal is notable for controlling blood sugar, maintaining heart health, and improving digestion.

Kulti Kalai (Horse GramGram / Kulthir Dal):

The shape of this dal is quite similar to masoor dal, but its color is yellow. It is a nutritious lentil, rich in protein, fiber, iron, and calcium. This dal contains a high amount of iron, phosphorus, vitamin C, B1, B2, and niacin. It is notable for increasing blood production, improving digestion, and helping control diabetes. Because it contains a significant amount of iron, it helps strengthen the body.

Khesari Kalai (Grass Pea / Kesari Dal):

This light grey-colored dal contains vitamins, minerals, fiber, iron, and protein. Notably, khesari dal contains a toxic amino acid called BOAA. Consuming khesari dal in excessive amounts can cause a neurological paralysis known as neurolathyrism. For this reason, the consumption of khesari dal has decreased in recent times.

------::: SNACKS ITEMS :::------

Vaji (Fried Dishes):

Having any kind of fried dish (vaji) with rice adds a distinct flavor to the meal. Usually, “vaji” refers to fried items like potatoes, jackfruit seeds, ridge gourd, teasel gourd, spine gourd, snake gourd, eggplant, spring onion, ash gourd, and bottle gourd. Apart from these, a special delicacy is duck egg fried with mustard (soishar) flowers, which is simply exquisite.

Bora (Fritters):

To make bara, mix equal portions of rice flour and wheat flour (or refined flour), add a pinch of salt, turmeric powder, and dry chili powder, then whisk the mixture well with water to make a smooth batter. Next, dip thinly sliced vegetables like eggplant, ash gourd, bottle gourd, bokful (sesbania flower), or pumpkin flower into the batter and fry them — and it’s ready! Alternatively, a mixture of turmeric, onion, dry chili, green chili, and lentils (like black gram, mung bean, or split peas) can be ground together on a stone slab (shil-pata) and fried over a low flame to make lentil fritters. Popular varieties include fritters made from masoor dal (red lentils), khesari dal (grass peas), motor dal (yellow peas), and cholar dal (Bengal gram). Some people also make fritters using jute leaves, a leafy creeper called alangi, or crushed taro stems. One of my personal favorites is a fritter made from lightly crushed potato and pointed gourd peels, ground together on a stone slab and fried till crisp.

------::: SHAG (VEGETEBLES) :::------

In our daily meals, various kinds of leafy greens (shag) occupy an important place depending on the season. These greens not only aid in digestion but also help boost the body’s immune system. Moreover, since leafy vegetables are rich in dietary fibre, they help relieve constipation.

Dhekia Shak (Fiddlehead Fern):

Dhekia shak is an evergreen plant that grows throughout the year in shady and moist areas. It is a nutritious and delicious leafy vegetable. It can be eaten fried with salt and oil, or prepared as a spicy curry by cooking the tender tops of the fern with mustard paste and potatoes. The scientific name of dhekia shak is Diplazium esculentum. The vitamins and minerals present in it help prevent heart diseases, strengthen immunity, keep the skin healthy, control blood sugar levels, and improve digestion. Many people also prepare fritters (bora) with dhekia shak.

Bothua Shak (Lamb's quarters/ White goosefoot/ Fat hen):

Bathua shak (or Betho shak) is cultivated in wheat fields at the end of winter and becomes available in local markets at the beginning of summer. It also grows naturally as a weed along the edges of fields. This leafy green can be eaten either as a stir-fry or as a curry. However, a particularly delicious preparation is when bathua shak is fried together with eggplant and fish oil. Bathua shak is rich in iron, potassium, vitamin A, vitamin C, and fiber. Its scientific name is Chenopodium album. This leafy vegetable is excellent for boosting immunity and digestion. In rural traditions, it is believed that drinking bathua juice mixed with sugar helps dissolve kidney stones. Many people also believe that bathua shak is an effective remedy for leucoderma (vitiligo). For wounds, the traditional method is to heat bathua with sesame oil and apply it to the affected area. Chewing raw bathua shak is also said to heal mouth ulcers. However, excessive consumption of bathua shak may cause diarrhoea.

Kolmi Shak (Water spinach/Water morning glory):

Water spinach (Kolmi shak) usually grows in watery or marshy areas. It is typically stir-fried in a small amount of oil with dried chilies, onions, and garlic. Besides being cooked as a stir-fry, kolmi shak is also prepared as a lentil curry (dal) with shrimp or small fish. Some people cook it with eggplant as well. Kolmi shak is rich in vitamins and minerals. Its scientific name is Ipomoea aquatica. The presence of beta-carotene (a source of vitamin A) helps improve eyesight. Since it contains a high amount of vitamin C, eating this leafy vegetable boosts the immune system. The calcium in kolmi shak helps strengthen bones. Additionally, it is beneficial for reducing the risk of heart disease, maintaining a healthy liver, and improving digestion.

Pat Shak (Jute Leaves):

At the end of summer, jute (pat) is cultivated in the fields; hence, jute leaves (pat shak) are available during both summer and monsoon seasons. Pat shak is usually cooked either as a stir-fry or as a light curry. Since jute leaves contain a high amount of fiber, they tend to be comparatively tough. Therefore, the leaves are rolled by hand into small knots and dried under the sun — this is known as pat shaker gito. After drying in the sun for three to four days, the leaves become soft, a stage referred to as pat patar shukati. This dried form (shukati) is often cooked with lentils, especially masoor dal. Additionally, pat shaker gito is prepared as a chachchari (a semi-dry mixed dish) with potatoes and mustard paste. Sometimes, it is also cooked as chyaka using dhula (alkaline dust, discussed below) or edible soda. Pat shak is rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, which help prevent various diseases in the body. Its scientific name is Corchorus Olitorius. Being high in fiber, pat shak helps relieve constipation and improves digestion. It is also rich in calcium and magnesium, which strengthen bones and teeth. The vitamin C content helps protect against colds and coughs, while vitamins A and E keep the skin healthy and improve eyesight. Moreover, the potassium in pat shak helps regulate blood pressure, and its antioxidants reduce inflammation, thereby lowering the risk of diseases such as cancer and heart ailments.

Napa/ Lafa Shak (Mallow):

Napa Shak (or Lafa Shak) is now available in the market throughout the year, except during the monsoon season. Although it is essentially a winter flowering plant, it is widely used as a popular leafy vegetable. Among the Rajbanshi community, Napa Shak Palka (discussed below) is especially popular. Apart from that, Napa Shak is also eaten as a stir-fry, sour curry, or light broth. The scientific name of Napa Shak is Malva parviflora. It is rich in essential nutrients such as vitamins A, C, and K, along with calcium, iron, potassium, and dietary fiber. The calcium present in Napa Shak helps maintain healthy bones, while vitamin A benefits eye health. The presence of vitamin C boosts the body’s immune system. The fiber in Napa shak aids digestion and helps prevent constipation. Additionally, its potassium content helps regulate blood pressure. Many believe that regular consumption of Napa Shak helps control high blood pressure and diabetes. However, those who are allergic to certain vegetables should avoid or limit their intake of Napa Shak.

হাপ্পা হাপ্পা নাপা শাক, রসুন তেলানি।

দোলাবাড়ির পুটিমাছ, মুকোত আনে পানি।।

তাকজে খ্যায়া ঘেগী বুড়ি ঘ্যাগ উচিয়া নাচে ।

নয়া সাকাই আসচে বারিতে ।।

(A new relative has arrived at home. Putimach or pool barb   from the wetlands and long Napa saag or lafa greens have been cooked with a garlic tempering. After eating it, Grandma is dancing around in joy.)

------::: CHHYEKA :::------

 (Digestive Vegetable Shoop)

One of the important traditional dishes of the Koch Rajbongshi community is Chhyakā. First, a small amount of spices is lightly roasted. Once the tempering is ready, the leafy greens are added to the pan and lightly sautéed. When the greens release their water, a little more water is added to the pan. Then baking soda or dhula* (alkaline ash made from the burnt stem of the banana plant) is added. A discussion of this dhula is given below. The addition of this alkaline ash helps the greens melt down and turn slightly slimy in texture. After that, when the water dries up according to the desired consistency, the Chhyakā is ready to eat. Since alkaline ash is used in preparing Chhyakā, if someone has indigestion, gas, or acidity, the alkaline element in the dish helps neutralize it. For this reason, many people refer to Chhyakā as a dish that cleanses the stomach. Some people prepare Chhyakā with onion and garlic, while others cook it strictly vegetarian without using them. Among the Koch and Rajbongshi communities, Chhyakā made from drumstick leaves, bottle gourd leaves, Malabar spinach, and Mallow leaves (Napa saag) is highly valued. Among my favourite variations of Chhyakā, those made with bottle gourd and cabbage are noteworthy. Some people also cook Chhyakā with flattened rice (chira). In the month of Bhadra, the Koch and Rajbongshi people prepare and eat Manar Chhyakā or Manakchur Chhyakā. Some also use Darika fish (Darkina) and Sidol in Chhyakā, though that will be discussed in a later chapter. Importantly, Chhyakā not only cleanses the stomach but also helps improve blood circulation, relieve constipation, and assist in weight reduction.

*Dhula:

The stem or core of an Atia banana plant (or mura, a banana pseudostem) is first dried in the sun and then burned. From the ashes, the fine and light ash is carefully separated. Then, a coconut shell or husk with a small hole is fitted with a kosta (a jute fiber plug). The fine banana ash is placed inside the shell, and water is poured over it. Gradually, alkaline water drips down through the bottom hole. This alkaline liquid is collected in a pot and was traditionally used for cooking chyaka (a local curry). The device made from the coconut shell is called a Potna.

Palka:

Palka is cooked in a similar way to Chyaka, but the main difference is that Chyaka requires tialani (tempering with oil/ Foron), whereas Palka is prepared without oil. Only three ingredients are needed to make Palka: green chilies, garlic, and salt. In a pan or a covered pot, water is boiled and chopped green chilies, garlic, vegetables, and salt are added and boiled together. The greens float on the surface of the water. When the water dries up, Palka is ready. Since the vegetables are not fried, Palka retains more nutritional value, and many people refer to it as a kind of soup. Palka tends to have a slightly slippery texture.

হুল্লুতে প্যালকা কাউনির চাউল

ডাউল দিয়া হইচে।

তাকে খায়া পানিয়ামরা

বাউদিয়া হইচে ।।

(Today’s meal was cooked with broken rice, palka, and dal. After eating it, the head of the family has wandered away from home.)

-----::: FISH ITEMS (FRESH) :::-----

I believe that fish-based cuisine is not something exclusive to any particular caste or community. This is because throughout North Bengal and Lower Assam, not only the Rajbanshi people but also many other ethnic groups live side by side — such as the Bodo, Rava, Nepali, Bengali, Assamese, Mech, Garo, and Santal communities. Due to the long history of coexistence among these diverse groups, there has been a rich exchange of cultural traditions. As a result, it is difficult — and not entirely accurate — to determine which group’s style of cooking fish belongs to whom. Rather, it is more meaningful to discuss the kinds of fish commonly eaten by the Rajbanshi people. For instance, baim fish is generally eaten by Muslims and not usually by the Rajbanshi community. Throughout the year, the rivers, canals, ponds, and wetlands of North Bengal are full of various types of fish — among the most notable are rui, katla, boirali, moa, chanda, chang, bhola, phali, shaul, and chitol. Depending on the season, these fish are often cooked in curries with potatoes and cauliflower, or potatoes and brinjal. Besides that, saati fish is cooked with kochu (taro) and lentils; small darkina or puti fish are cooked with potatoes and onions into a spicy chhachchari (mixed curry). Likewise, fried fish such as khalisha, puiya, khyata, gata, isla, bashpatari, chapila, and bata go very well with hot rice. Tangra fish is cooked either as a chhachchari or a light curry. Though telapuiya and koi fish have many bones, when prepared with hot spices they taste delicious. Some people cook kuchia (eel fish) with garlic in a meat-like style to increase blood levels in the body. For the sick, light broths of koi, magur, and shingi fish, seasoned with cumin, are considered highly beneficial. Those who own ponds or small tanks often eat fish like silver carp, grass carp, sarputi, and japani puti throughout the year. In addition to local fish, various traded (chalani) fish found in the markets include ilish (hilsa), pabda, aar, bhetki, golda chingri (giant prawns), and pomfret. Cooking and eating these varieties of fish at home largely depend on one’s purchasing power. Usually, such dishes are served at special occasions and feasts — such as weddings or annaprashan (the first rice-eating ceremony).

-------::: DRY FISH ITEMS :::-------

Once, during the monsoon season, when rivers, canals, wetlands, and low-lying fields overflowed with rainwater, fish became plentiful. At that time, people would catch fish to their heart’s content using jakai, khalai, tepai, burung, and polo nets. Fishing then took on the spirit of a grand festival. The abundance of fish in those days is evident from the names of various places in North Bengal — such as Putimari, Moyamari, Chandamari, Falimari, Shaulmari, Changmari, Khalisamari, Ichamari, and others — all of which carry traces of that legacy. Since it was impossible to consume so much fish at once, preservation became necessary. It is believed that from this very need originated shutka (dried fish) and sidol (fermented fish paste).

Sutka:

The fish are cleaned by cutting open their bellies, washing thoroughly, and rubbing them with salt before being dried in the sun. After about ten days of drying, the shutka (dried fish) becomes ready to eat. Dried varieties of Khakila, Monbhola, Darkina, and Icha (shrimp) are especially popular among the Rajbanshi community.

Sidole:

After the monsoon, when the shallow ponds and waterlogged areas around the house dry up, fish caught from these places are used for making sidol (fermented fish ball). The fish are first rubbed against a rough bamboo strainer tray (chongoi) to remove their scales, and then the insides are cleaned thoroughly. Next, the fish are washed again and dried well under strong sunlight. Once completely dried, the fish are ground into powder using a cham and gaine (traditional wooden mortar and pestle). The powder is then sieved through a tekni (bamboo sieve). The fine powder that passes through is kept separately, while the remaining coarse bits — bones and pieces of fish — are ground again until finely powdered. If alangi (a type of edible root) is available, it is ideal; otherwise, mana (taro root or colocasia) are used by removing their skin and cutting them into thin slices. In the cham, the fine fish powder is mixed with the alangi or mana pieces, a little turmeric, and mustard oil. This mixture is then pounded thoroughly with the gaine. The pounding continues until the alangi pieces blend completely with the powdered fish. No water should be added during this process. After a long session of pounding, a dark-colored paste is formed. At this stage, it has no particular smell. However, after being dried in the sun for several days, when it begins to emit a strong odor, it indicates that the sidol is ready. To prevent insects or fungus from forming, the sidol is stored in an airtight container along with angra (pieces of charcoal). Sidol can mainly be cooked in two ways — Sidoler Chhyaka (a type of spiced stew) and Sidoler Auta (a thick paste or mash).

Sidoler Awta:

On a clay stove, with a small fire, first heat a little oil in an iron pan (Tasla). Then lightly fry some dry red chilies, chopped garlic, and sidol (fermented fish ball). After that, add a little water or rice starch (bhat’er Maar/ phaan), along with salt to taste, and let it boil well before removing it from the pan. It is worth mentioning that Sidoler Auta has a soft, mashed texture. When eaten with hot rice, nothing else is needed. Sidoler Auta is considered very important for restoring one’s appetite and enhancing taste.

Sidoler chhyeka:

Sidoler Chhyaka is quite similar to Sidoler Auta. However, in this preparation, dry red chilies, chopped garlic, and sidol (fermented fish ball) are lightly fried in a little oil first. Then, any seasonal leafy vegetable is added to it. Once everything is well fried, a small amount of baking soda is added. A light gravy is then made by adding a little water. In earlier times, instead of baking soda, Dhula (banana stem or banana root ash) was used. Dishes like Sidol-er Chhyaka made with napashak, puishak, or lau pata (various local greens) are not only delicious—like nectar—but also very good for digestion.

------::: MEAT ITEMS (MOSONG) :::------

Until the 1990s, in Rajbanshi society, the term “meat” usually referred to goat (patha), castrated goat (khasi), sheep, pigeon (koitor), duck, or pork. Good-quality meat was available in the village markets (haat), but those markets were held only once a week, and permanent marketplaces were few. When guests or relatives came to visit, people would buy meat through a system called bhaga (sharing). Three or four families would jointly buy and slaughter a goat or khasi, and the meat would be divided equally on banana leaves, ensuring everyone received a fair share of all parts. The goats from Baneswar and Kashiyabari markets were famous in the region, while the pork from Damanpur and Dodeya markets had a great reputation. In Rajbanshi religious rituals, chicken is never used. Most families did not rear chickens, as it was considered impure or inappropriate. However, later on, chicken became more common because it was cheaper. When I was a child, I saw many elderly people who wouldn’t even allow chicken meat to be placed on their plates.

দই এর আগাল, ঘোলের শেষ।

কচি পাঠা, বৃদ্ধ মেষ।।

(Just as the creamy top layer of curd tastes good, and the very last drops of buttermilk are the most flavourful, the delight of eating a tender young goat is just as satisfying as eating the meat of an old sheep.)

Pata:

Using a fire made of dry twigs (khori), the meat and potatoes are first fried in an iron wok. Then water is added to make gravy, and once the mixture is cooked and softened, the meat is ready. The spices used are minimal — just a little cumin, ginger, and dry red chili paste ground on a traditional shil-nora (stone grinder). The freshly cooked meat and its gravy are entirely natural and healthy. In those days, people didn’t marinate the meat or wait for hours, nor did they overload the dish with heaps of powdered spices that upset the stomach. Only a small amount of turmeric powder was added. Nowadays, the authentic flavor of local cooking is being lost amid various types of packaged spice mixes. Incidentally, patha refers to a male goat. According to many, the goats found in North Bengal are comparatively smaller in size, with ears positioned at a right angle to the head. This breed is known as the West Bengal Black Goat. Goats from Bihar are taller, with drooping ears, and are often called Ram chagol (ram goats). Folklore says that if a male goat is black in color and roams freely, its meat tastes far better.

Khashi:

To make pithali, mix a small amount of turmeric, dry red chili powder, salt, water, and rice flour into a thick batter. Then, pieces of khasir tel are coated with the batter and deep-fried in hot oil. These khasir tel-er bora (fried fat fritters) are delicious. Similarly, a meal of meat, fat, and gravy served with steaming hot rice is simply exquisite. According to an old local belief, if a male goat (patha) becomes sexually active, its physical strength declines, and its meat loses much of its nutritive value and taste. To maintain the quality of the meat, the goat’s reproductive organs (testes) are either cut or crushed. Such a goat is called a khasi (castrated goat), and the process is known as khasia kora (castration). As a result of this procedure, fat begins to accumulate in the goat’s body within a short time. When it weighs around 10–12 kilograms, it is considered suitable for consumption. If a khasi weight exceeds 15 kilograms, it is no longer allowed to roam outside, as running or exertion might cause a heart attack. With proper care and feeding as a child, a khasi can grow up to 20–25 kilograms. Since goat meat contains a high level of cholesterol, obese people are advised to avoid eating it. Overconsumption of goat meat increases the risk of heart attack. The Khasir Mosong (meat) from the periodic markets of Hamiltonganj, Damanpur, Kashiyabari, Shikaripur, Nilkuthi, and Dodeya is particularly famous.

Suwar (Pork):

In the weekly markets of Kalchini, Mahakalguri, Damanpur, and Dodeya, good-quality pork is available. People generally prefer the badu (fatty layer) more than the lean meat itself. To prepare it, the meat is first boiled in hot water. Then, with the help of pliers, the thick bristles on the skin are pulled out. Some people, instead of taking the trouble, simply cut off the tough outer skin. However, by doing so, the characteristic “kach-kach” (crunchy) sound heard while eating the badu after cooking is lost. Like goat or mutton, pork is cooked by braising it well with onions, garlic, ginger, turmeric, cumin, and other spices. If not eaten while hot, the gravy thickens quickly as it cools. In our household, though the men ate pork, the women did not. Separate pans and plates were kept exclusively for cooking this meat. The young men of the family would sometimes cook it themselves — like a picnic — eat together, and then wash the utensils afterward. Since pork contains a high amount of fat, people often eat it with roti instead of rice. However, excessive consumption can lead to tapeworm infection and also increases the risk of heart attack.

Koitor:

One of the traditional delicacies of the Rajbanshi people is koitor or pigeon meat. It is usually prepared to honour special guests. The younger the koitor (also called kobitor or pigeon), the better it tastes. If an older pigeon is cooked, its bones make a hard, cracking sound while eating. The bird’s feathers are plucked, and the meat is slightly singed over fire before cooking. According to local belief, if too much talking is done while burning off the feathers, more new feathers tend to grow back. As pigeon meat is considered “cooling” in nature, it is generally avoided by those prone to colds or respiratory problems. During winter, when mustard is cultivated in the fields, pigeons feed on the mustard seeds, which make them fatter. At that time, a dish of koitor meat cooked with alangi (small taro roots), served with bhog dhan rice and fried jackfruit seeds, tasted simply exquisite. Moreover, when people make vows to deities, pigeons are sometimes sacrificed and offered as part of the ritual. However, in such offerings, onion and garlic are not used in the preparation. In many Kali temples, koitorer moshong (pigeon meat) is also cooked with Bengal gram (cholar dal) as prasad (sacred offering).

Hasha (Duck):

Usually, when a person’s vow or wish made to a deity is fulfilled, they offer a duck (haas) to the deity on the next auspicious date according to the lunar calendar. After the worship, the duck is cooked and eaten as prasad (sacred offering). This meat contains a high amount of iron and also fatty acids, which help in rapid weight gain. However, heart patients, overweight individuals, and those with allergies generally avoid eating duck meat.

Harital:

While ploughing the fields, various small creatures such as insects, worms, and grubs come out of the soil. These attract herons, and sometimes harital birds (a local species) also come to feed on them. They used to be hunted with slings (batul). People often said, “The harital is the food of kings.” I have never eaten its meat myself, but I have seen this bird many times in the fields. Nowadays, under the Wildlife Protection Act, catching or hunting them is completely prohibited.

Dauki:

The Dauki or Dahuk bird is the White-breasted Waterhen. Even today, this black-and-white bird can be seen in the rural areas of North Bengal — in fields, wetlands, and waterlogged lands. Its legs are long and yellowish in colour. To catch a Dauki, people used to set traps made from broken umbrella ribs and bamboo frames (bansher deli). When one bird was caught, its pitiful cries would attract the rest of the flock, and they too would get trapped one by one. The meat of the Dauki was cleaned, cut into small pieces, and cooked with simple spices until well-braised. Nowadays, because of the easy availability of chicken in the market, eating Dauki has almost disappeared.

Dura:

The dura is a small aquatic creature, much smaller in size than a turtle. Generally, there are two types of dura — dhyap dura and katua dura. Notably, dhyap dura used to be found in wetlands, low-lying areas, and ponds as the monsoon water receded. On the other hand, katua dura was found in higher, sandy riverbanks. Its meat is soft and tender. As late as 2002–2003, I myself saw dura meat being sold in the periodic markets of Boxirhat and Kashiyabarihat. However, if it was not cleaned and washed properly before cooking, it could cause poisoning. At present, under the Wildlife Protection Act, catching or hunting these creatures is completely prohibited.

------::: SPECIAL ITEMS :::------

Tākoā:

In the shallow waters of the wild rivers of North Bengal, cone-shaped, black-coloured freshwater snails are found buried in the sand. These are called tākoā. Their size can range from two centimetres to five centimetres. After collecting these snails, they are first kept in a jute sack, then sand is sprinkled over them and they are rubbed thoroughly. As a result, the black colour of their shells comes off, revealing a reddish tint. Next, the fleshy part is pulled out and chopped into small pieces. After washing well, they can be fried with spices or cooked as a chhachchari (a type of Bengali mixed sauté). In the roadside markets of Topshikhata and Chilapata, tākoā chhachchari is sold as a plate item. The price is only 20 rupees per plate. However, if not cleaned properly before cooking, the sand makes a gritty, crunchy sound while eating.

Hosyā:

After thoroughly rubbing the tākoā snails with sand inside the jute sack, you must check whether the black color on their shells has come off. Then, using a safety pin, the fleshy part that sticks out when they move should be slit open. At the same time, the pointed tip of the cone-shaped shell has to be broken off. The reason for breaking the tip is to allow the chyakā gravy to enter inside the shell. Next, the tākoā snails should be fried in hot oil with salt. Separately, a chyakā curry made from mashkalai dal (black gram) should be prepared using baking soda. Into this curry, the fried tākoā are added and boiled for a while. When eating, you simply place your mouth on the broken shell opening and suck — the soft inner flesh slides straight into the mouth. That is why this dish is called hosyā.

Jinai (Jhinuk/ Oysters):

Under the clear waters of the rivers of North Bengal, freshwater clams can be found buried in the sand. These are usually about three to four centimetres in size. After removing the inner food canal and gallbladder, the fleshy part is taken out. Their food sac often contains sand. The flesh is then chopped into small pieces, washed thoroughly, and cooked either by frying with spices or as a chhachchari (a sautéed mixed preparation).

kakra (Crab):

Crabs are found in the mud along the riverbanks. Compared to saltwater crabs, the crabs of the rivers and streams of North Bengal are smaller in size. After catching these crabs, their claws and legs (Dammu) are broken off, the shell is removed, and the body is cleaned and washed. They are then cooked by frying with onion, garlic, and spices, or prepared as a chhachchari. Along the road from Alipurduar to Hashimara, many roadside eateries sell fried crab and crab chutney as plate items.

-------::: DRINKS :::-------

Sarpes (Sharbat):

Cool water from an earthen pot is mixed with sugar and a pinch of salt. Once the sugar and salt dissolve completely, lemon juice is squeezed in — and the Sarpes (or Sharbat) is ready. For added aroma, some people use Gandharaj lemon, while others prefer Kakji lemon for a tangier taste. This drink not only cools the body but also replenishes the lost salts and helps prevent dehydration.

Ghol (Buttermilk):

Sour curd, sugar, a little salt, and water are whisked together using a ghutni (traditional wooden churner) to prepare Ghol. It helps keep the stomach cool and improves digestion. Some people add mint leaves and a pinch of black salt (beet lobon) to enhance the flavor.

------::: DESART (MITA) :::-------

Dhing Pita (Bamboo Rice Cake):

On the day of Poushna or Chaitra Sankranti, the Koch Rajbanshi people of North Bengal, as well as during Bhogali Bihu in Assam, traditionally prepare and eat Dhing Pitha. However, with the passage of time, this custom of eating Dhing Pitha has almost disappeared. To prepare it, first take pithali or rice flour and mix it well with water. While mixing, add only salt according to taste. Next, bring some raw bamboo and cut it into small pieces (called dum). Each bamboo piece should have a knot (closed end) on one side, while the other side remains open. Slightly split the bamboo pieces with a machete so that the gas inside can escape while heating. Now, pour the thin rice batter into the bamboo through the open end using a cup, and then roast the bamboo pieces over fire. Keep the pieces slightly tilted while heating them from below. After about 30 to 35 minutes, the pitha will start coming out from the open end of the bamboo — that means the Dhing Pitha is ready. While hot, the pitha inside the bamboo remains soft, but once it cools down, it becomes firm. Then it can be taken out and sliced into round pieces with a knife. It is usually eaten with molasses (jaggery). Incidentally, the main difference between Dhing Pitha and South Indian Idli is that Idli is cooked in open moulds, making it porous and fluffy, whereas Dhing Pitha is much denser and more compact in texture.

Puli Pita (Stuffed Rice Dumpling):

Pithali or rice flour is mixed with water and kneaded to make small balls (narus). On the other hand, a dry vegetable curry should be cooked and kept ready — many people prefer cabbage curry for this. Next, each kneaded ball is shaped like a small bowl, filled with the cooked vegetable mixture, and the top is sealed. Then these are fried in hot mustard oil, and the delicious Bhaja Puli Pitha (fried puli cake) is ready. Some people, however, use kheer (condensed milk) as the filling instead of vegetables. Others prepare a sweet filling made with grated coconut, sugar, and cardamom in a pan. When the puli pitha is filled with kheer or coconut stuffing, it is not fried in oil. Instead, it is boiled in hot milk, which makes a sweet dish known as Dudh Puli. However, many believe that these varieties of pitha entered Rajbanshi culinary culture as a result of cultural blending with the lower regions (Bhatir Desh).

Patisapta (Rice Crepe with Sweet Filling):

First, mix rice flour, refined flour (maida), semolina (suji), sugar, milk, and a pinch of salt to make a thin batter. Then heat a little oil in a pan and spread the batter evenly over it. When the batter spreads lightly like a pancake, place a filling of coconut and jaggery or kheer (condensed milk) on one side and fold it over. Like Dudh Pitha, many believe that these kinds of pithas, too, came into Rajbanshi culinary tradition through cultural blending with Bangladesh (the lower region).

Mistanna (Confectionery):

Tulsi-bhog rice or atop rice, along with an equal amount of milk and sugarcane jaggery or sugar, is cooked over heat in a pan to prepare this sweet dish. During religious rituals and festivals, Luchi and this sweet dish are offered to the deities. To enhance the flavor, many people add cardamom, raisins, and cinnamon. Similarly, this sweet dish is also prepared to celebrate birthdays. It can also be eaten as a light snack with puffed rice (muri).

--------::: MOUTH FRESHNER :::-------

The thing without which one cannot quite begin an intimate conversation, or bring forth words of joy and sorrow from the heart to the lips, is Paan (betel leaf) and Tambul (areca nut) — Paan and Supri (Supari). The supari of Dhupguri and the paan of Japaiguri and Maynaguri are renowned throughout North Bengal.

Gua Pan:

The financial condition of a household could often be gauged by looking at its paan bata (tray). It was usually under the care of an elderly woman of the house — the mother, grandmother, or great-grandmother. Every day, they would faithfully slice areca nuts (supari) with a small cutter (sottya or jāti) and neatly arrange them on the tray along with a few fresh betel leaves. A paan bata (tray) typically contained several small containers, each holding sliced supari, khoyer (catechu), gundi (flavored cardamom or nut preparation), and chun (lime paste). The container used for storing lime was called chuner khuti. Whether it was arranging a marriage alliance, an afternoon gathering of women, or an evening session of music and friendly chats among elders — paan and supri were always present. During such storytelling sessions, the master of the house would sometimes order his wife to prepare food. But if there was nothing in the kitchen, the irritated wife would sharply reply — what do you think she said?

মাইয়োর মা কুত্তি গেলু হা, আজি তুই ভাতো রান্ধিবু না।

আজি মুই কোনোয় রান্ধিম না,

দেখি তোমরা কি করিবার পান,

পাইছলা গেইচে চুনার খুটিত, তবু না ছাড়েন গান।।

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Moza Gua (Fermented Areca nut):

On the other hand, ripe yellow areca nuts have to be plucked from the trees. Then a pit is dug in the ground, and the areca nuts are placed inside a drum, which is sealed and buried in the earth. During the rainy season, many people fill sacks with areca nuts and submerge them in ponds instead. After about 15 to 20 days, the nuts swell up, and their outer husks loosen. This fermented areca nut is known as “Moza Guya.”

Vaja Gua:

Half-ripe areca nuts must be plucked from the tree. Then they are roasted in an iron pan without using any oil. Some people roast them with sand instead. After roasting, the areca nuts are sliced using a cutter (Sottya or jāti), and thus the roasted supri (supari) is ready. Many people call this variety “vaza supri" or "chips supari.”

Deshi Gaach Paan:

Usually, these paan trees grow by clinging to areca nut trees for support. The betel leaves are smaller in size, and their taste is stronger than that of other varieties. If one is not accustomed to it, chewing these leaves can cause dizziness.

Vaaga Paan:

With either fermented (moza) areca nut or raw areca nut, one can enjoy bhagapan — whether made with the local desi betel leaf or the refined chalani variety. The bhagapan roll (khili) is prepared using raw supari mixed with lime paste (chun). For those unaccustomed to it, chewing it suddenly can make them break into a sweat and even peel the skin of the tongue.

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