Introduction :
During my days staying at VK Hostel in North Bengal University, I used to gaze at the twinkling lights of the Kurseong hills in the evenings and wonder when I would get to visit there. In 2004, I finally went on a trip to Madhuban and Rohini with friends, hiring an autorickshaw for the journey. The mountains have stayed etched in my heart for the last twenty years. Whenever I visit Siliguri for work, I always set aside some time for the hills. There have even been times when, after finishing work at the Higher Secondary Board Office, I went ghost-hunting at Dow Hill, or after dropping a student off for the NET exam, I went for tea at the hills of Tindharia. Driving along the winding roads, I find myself singing to my beloved sitting beside me, “Are Kanchi Timi… ghumau nu Darjeeling sahara.”
Exploring Darjeeling:
It really saddens me when I see hundreds of tourists arriving every day at NJP Railway Station or Bagdogra Airport only to visit Darjeeling town. For them, Darjeeling means nothing more than Tiger Hill, Batasia Loop, Padmaja Naidu Park, Rock Garden, an evening stroll hand in hand along Mall Road, and a ride on the toy train—or at least a selfie with it. Then what about all those waterfalls, rushing rivers, pine forests, the rolling tea gardens along the hillsides, the century-old mansions, monasteries, and the rhododendron forests—are they all to fade into insignificance? It’s no exaggeration to say that if, after 10 p.m., hundreds of water tankers did not bring water from Rohini to fill the reservoirs of the hotels in Darjeeling town, tourists would not even be able to answer the call of nature in the morning. Despite its many problems, Darjeeling has a unique and proud history. The Nepali, Lepcha, Bhutia, Limbu, and Sherpa communities each have their own festivals, customs, food habits, and languages. In contrast, foreign tourists are far more thoughtful. They usually read detailed guidebooks about a place before coming. Then, once here, they compare, observe, and experience everything personally—without the need for guides or assistance. They wander around with books in hand, trying to understand Darjeeling from within. But tourists from our own country do their “study” through Facebook and Instagram—deciding in advance from which angle to take photos that will get the most views on social media. So I am not at all surprised when I overhear a man explaining to his companion,“You see, that white stuff (Sada Maal) hidden behind the clouds—that’s Mt. Kanchenjunga!”
Old Military Road/ Pankhabari Road (Siliguri - Khaprail - Garidhura - Pankhabari - Makaibari - Kurseong Route):
Many historians believe that during the British period, this was the only route from the Bengal Presidency to Darjeeling. Around 1842, Robert Cornelius Napier completed this road under his supervision. At that time, British troops had to travel from Siliguri to Darjeeling either on horseback or on foot via this hilly track. That is why this road was also known as the Old Military Road. The local Sherpas would carry goods on the backs of horses, mules, and other pack animals to Darjeeling. After crossing Garidhura, the road from Pankhabari went straight through Mokaibari to Kurseong, which, in those days, was truly a grueling journey. Later, by 1869, an alternative road was constructed—Hill Cart Road. Today, this route is known as Pankhabari Road. Just below Kurseong, on both sides of the road, several old British-era houses can still be seen, now used as government offices or residences. Jeep taxis returning from Darjeeling to Siliguri travel this road early in the morning, saving some fuel in the process. In 2018, my family and I were returning home via this road. We descended almost 100 feet at each hairpin bend, and the ringing in our ear-drums was constant. The road winds through dense forests of tall pine, sal, and bamboo trees in Bamunpokhri. At each bend, the interplay of sunlight and mist made it feel as if Yamaraj himself was standing nearby, holding his staff, watching us. On the right side of the road, the Balason River valley descends steeply, with the Longview Tea Garden below—a sight simply breathtaking. Occasionally, Pawan Daju, the driver would tell quick, humorous stories in a mix of Hindi and Nepali. Meanwhile, we sat frozen like patches of grass, wide-eyed, fearing imminent danger. Nothing could bring a smile to our faces. After all this time, only one phrase echoed in our ears: “To bolo, hai ki nai!” For returning tourists, this can be considered a last thrill provided by the local drivers. However, if one skips breakfast or overeats at the hotel, headaches and nausea are inevitable on this road. Finally, after the jeep reached the line-hotel, we all felt life return to our bodies. Ever-smiling Pawan Daju once again said: “Kya bola, main ne, bolo hai ki nai?”
Lebong Cart Road / Darjeeling - Jorthang Rd. ( Jorthang - Raammam Bridge - Singla TG - Tukvor TG - Chaukbazar - Darjeeling) :
Tourists who wish to visit Sikkim after touring Darjeeling usually take this route. In the past, this road was called Lebong Cart Road. On Google Maps today, it is known as the Darjeeling–Jorethang Road. After visiting Namchi and Char Dham in Sikkim in 2022, we returned to Darjeeling via this road. Our driver, always reliable, was Dipankar. After crossing Jorethang in Sikkim, the road becomes mostly level. However, from the Rammam Bridge, near the Sikkim–West Bengal border, the road is both rough and narrow. After crossing a hanging bridge, the road splits into two directions. When we asked the on-duty police officer, he said that if we take the right path for a while, we would reach Jumani Bridge, and from there we could go to Pulbazar and Bijanbari to reach Darjeeling. But we chose to follow the left path, the Lebong Cart Road. Along this route, there is no guard wall beside the cliffs—only some white lime painted stones mark the edge. My elder brother sat in the front seat, while my mother, my wife, and I were seated behind. Our car was fully packed with people and bedding. At one point, I whispered to Dipankar in a trembling voice, “Drive carefully, Dipankar; otherwise, there will be no one left in my family!” After climbing a little, the valley where Jorethang town of Sikkim lies comes into view, and it looks beautiful. It is worth noting that in Tibetan, Jore means “two” and Thang means “valley.” On this route, the prominent hill villages we passed include Singla, Takver, and finally Chaukbazar, before reaching Darjeeling, the district town. The road is extraordinarily scenic—simply breathtaking. On our right, the Rangit River valley slopes downward. In the tea gardens below, nepali women wearing colorful dresses are busy plucking tea leaves with baskets on their backs. Behind them, the high mountains of Sikkim seem to play with the sunlight and clouds. On our left, the valley’s tea gardens, with their fresh green leaves glittering in the sunlight, caught the eye. Passing by the Singla, Badamtam, and Lebong tea gardens one after another, we finally reached Mitma Homestay in the late afternoon. From here, Darjeeling was only a few minutes away.
Rishi Road / Mirik Rd. (Siliguri - Khaprail - Dudhia - Mirik - Pashupati - Lepcha Jagat - Ghoom - Darjeeling Route) :
Finally, after spending two days in Darjeeling town, we set out for Siliguri in the early morning, having had a heavy breakfast at the hotel. Although during my student life at North Bengal University I had taken many short trips along this route to Mirik, Gopaldera, Golpahari, and up to Pashupati Gate, I had never traveled the stretch from Ghum to Sukhiapokhri before. Our always-reliable driver, Dipankar, had also not been on this route previously. Anyway, after leaving Ghoom, we took the right-hand road. Since we were descending from the hills to the plains, there wasn’t likely to be much difficulty. The road was flanked by dense pine forests, and after we stopped at one place. Many cars were lined up along the narrow road. Tourists were busy keeping themselves in selfie mode. This place is called Lepcha Jagat. Due to the thick pine forest, it felt quite cold even at noon. A little further, we reached the Simana View Point. From here we drived at the India–Nepal international border along the roadside. From the Simana, a path leads towards Manebhanjan, Chitre, Lamadhura, and further up to Singalila National Park. Mountain climbers and trekkers, both domestic and foreign, usually collect supplies from Manebhanjan, which is nearby from Simana, before heading toward peaks such as Tonglu, Sandakphu, Sabargaram, and Falut. After having some tea and momos to beat the cold, we resumed our journey. We passed India - Nepal Pashupati Gate, Gufapatal Picnic Spot (Nepal), Gopaldera Tea Garden, Golpahari, one by one, and reached Mirik. After having lunch and visiting Mirik Lake and Park, we set out again. Following Tingling View Point and the tea gardens, the road became easier, so I took the driver’s seat. It is surprising that the iron bridge at Dudhiya, which I had driven over, was completely abandoned during the floods of October 5, 2025.
Hill Cart Road (Siliguri - Darjeeling More - Sukna - Rongtong - Gayabari - Paglajhora - Kurseong - Ghoom - Darjeeling) :
The old route to Darjeeling is the Hill Cart Road. Since the British era, all the essential supplies for the Darjeeling hills were transported along this path. After India’s independence, the road was renamed National Highway 55. I still remember — around 2005, when I was studying at the University of North Bengal, we had traveled by bus to Kurseong along this road. The special feature of this route is that the world-famous Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (the Toy Train) runs along it — twisting and turning, sometimes on the right and sometimes on the left side of the road. Starting from Darjeeling More, the road passes through the Sukna forest, cutting right through the Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary toward Rongtong. From there, it winds up through the hills, passing several settlements — the most notable being Sipaidhura, Gayabari, Mahanadi, Tindharia, Giddapahar, and Kurseong. At Tindharia, there is a workshop of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway. I once heard from a professor that low-grade coal from the Tertiary period is found in this region — these coal used to power the steam engines of the toy train. If luck favours you, you might even spot the famous steam locomotive “Baby Sevoke” chugging along this route. The sight of the toy train gliding beside the road and the rhythmic “koo-jhik-jhik” sound it makes remain etched in the memory forever. As the bus moved on, we gazed around in amazement. Soon we reached a stretch of broken, landslide-prone road. A little further ahead, through the left window, we saw a magnificent waterfall — Pagla Jhora. Though breathtaking in winter, during the monsoon it brings down mud, rocks, and debris, often blocking the road. Before long, our bus arrived at its destination — a seminar venue located right opposite Giddapahar, at the Netaji Museum and Centre for Languages, Society and Culture. The sunset that evening, seen from Giddapahar toward Rohini, is still unforgettable. Nearly twenty years later, in 2023, I drove along this same road myself, with my brother Dipankar beside me. The road is now officially called National Highway 110. It is quite narrow in places — when one vehicle passes, the other must stop to make way. The roadside signboards are well-marked, so recalling places from memory wasn’t difficult. The ascent on this route isn’t too steep, making it ideal for new drivers heading to Darjeeling. From Sipaidhura, a side road branches off to the right, climbs upward, and crosses the Shivkhola River before reaching Sittong, the land of oranges. After twenty years, I noticed that in many stretches the toy train tracks have nearly sunk into the ground. The Siliguri Junction–Darjeeling toy train service has been suspended for quite some time. Now, the toy train only runs between Darjeeling and Ghum, and then returns. Alas! Due to lack of maintenance, the heritage Darjeeling Himalayan Railway stations, once honoured by UNESCO, are now overgrown with wild grass and weeds. Still, after capturing photographs of the surroundings, we finally reached our destination.
Subhash Ghising Marg/ Rohini Rd. (Siliguri - Darjeeling More - Sukna - Simulbari - Rohini - Kurseong - Ghoom - Darjeeling) :
Just before Durga Puja in 2024, all of us set out once again on our way to Darjeeling — this time with my brother Dipankar. Today would be the real test of how perfect my driving skills had become over the years! The problem with the Rohini–Kurseong road is the heavy traffic. The road is not only steep but also full of sharp hairpin bends. Cars move in a line like a chain — one small mistake, an engine stall, or a sudden brake, and the vehicles behind come to an abrupt halt. If a car so much as bumps into another, it quickly turns into shouting and sometimes even physical scuffles. From Shimulbari, as we drove through the tea gardens, the road was fairly good — straight and wide. But once we crossed the Rohini toll gate, I realized how steep the ascent really was. At every hairpin bend, I had to honk, switch to first gear, and almost swerve into the opposite lane to climb the hill. Adding to the chaos were the Siliguri–Darjeeling route’s shared jeep taxis, which overtook from whichever side had the slightest gap. After several winding turns, I caught sight of a waterfall on the right — no time to check its name. Ahead was an Indian Oil tanker; behind us buzzed bikes, scooters, and cars like flies. By then, my knees and ankles were aching from pressing the clutch and brake continuously, and to make things worse, it started to drizzle. Near the “I Love Kurseong” point, thick fog joined the party. Meanwhile, the passengers in the back kept offering endless advice, sarcastic remarks, and desperate pleas for safety — as if I might abandon the journey midway and calm everyone’s nerves! Somehow, gritting my teeth and holding my ground, I managed to pass that day’s test successfully.
That time we first went to Beltar. While descending from Kurseong through the Maharani and Margarita tea estates, we could see the Beltar Resort from a distance. From there, we came through the Bagora Forest to Chimney. Good strawberries are available here. After enjoying hot tea and momos, we returned to Kurseong via Dow Hill.
Peshok Road (Teesta Bazar - Peshok - Lamahatta - takdah - 3rd Mile - Jorbunglow Route) :
After crossing the Rabijhora Bridge on the Sikkim-bound National Highway 10 from Sevoke, the Peshok Road begins on the right-hand side. It was January 2021 — I came along this road with my new car, accompanied by my wife and my brother Dipankar. Listening to FM Radio Misty 94.3, Dipankar drove towards Darjeeling. After passing Teesta Bazaar, we came across the famous Spiral Loop on this route. The car has to climb uphill making a turn of more than 360 degrees — truly thrilling and a bit terrifying. A little further along the winding road, we stopped at Lovers’ View Point. Looking down from there, one can clearly see the confluence of the Rungit and Teesta rivers. The spot below is known as the Triveni Picnic Spot. If you look closely, you can see people and rafting boats on the white sandy banks. After the 2023 floods, however, the Triveni campsite was closed. Our car continued climbing higher through dense forests of sal and teak. After a while, I caught a faint burning smell. When I asked about it, Dipankar said, “It’s nothing serious—just a bit of smell from the clutch plate while driving uphill.” After some time, the valley of the Rungit River on the right slowly disappeared from view. On the left began the rolling slopes of the Peshok Tea Garden. From the tea estate, a few roads descend leftward towards the villages of Tinchuley, Bara Mangwa, and Chhota Mangwa. Compared to NH 10, there are far fewer vehicles on this route. Along the roadside, local villagers sat with stalls displaying large radishes, koas (turnips), and various vegetables grown on their farms. A little higher up, tall pine forests appeared on both sides — this was Takdah Forest. Soon, a signboard caught our eye: “Welcome to Lamahatta Eco Hut.” There was no parking charge. We bought entry tickets for ₹20 each and entered the park. Once, this place used to be a Lama village. Walking up to the top of the park, we found a serene pond, regarded as sacred by local Buddhists. After capturing a few photos, we enjoyed tea and momos for tiffin before moving ahead. A little further along, a narrow road on the right led down to a village named Dabaipani. As we drove through the Takdah Forest, the calls of many different birds could be heard. It is said that black panthers roam here at dusk. Far away on the right, we could see the Lepchu Tea Garden — the smoke rising from its factory signaled the day’s busy work. Finally, we arrived at a small settlement called 3rd Mile, consisting of only a few houses. It can be called a junction on this route. Two roads branch off to the left — one goes toward Chatakpur, Bagora Forest, and Mahal Diram, while the other leads through Mongpu to Rambi Bazaar. We continued along Peshok Road. Evening was setting in. Our car moved forward with headlights on, through the cool, dense forest. This was the Senchal Forest — one of Darjeeling’s famous bird sanctuaries. Several birdwatchers from abroad had come here; after seeing some of their photographs, I felt my own knowledge had been enriched a little. After a few more turns along the hilly road, we finally headed toward Jorebungalow.
Mungpoo Road ( Rambi Bazar - Mungpoo - 3rd Mile - Jorebunglow Route) :
In 2008, a few friends and I went on a trip to the hills. Due to landslides, both the Sikkim-bound NH 10 and Peshok Road were closed, so our driver took us toward Mongpu. Around that time, I had just bought a small Nikon Coolpix digital camera. I captured some photos at the Bhalukhop viewpoint. After that, we reached Mongpu. There, we visited a museum associated with Rabindranath Tagore’s memory. We also saw the cultivation of cinchona trees. However, the road conditions were terrible. The continuous jolts caused pain in my neck, back, and limbs. From Mongpu, one can go to Darjeeling via 3rdMile. On the other side, crossing the Yogighat Bridge from Mongpu leads to Sitong—the orange paradise—and Mahal Diram. Anyway, that time we traveled through Ahaldara and Latpanchar, then descended via Kalijhora.
